Thursday 18 November 2010

Kyoto twice over!


Worried the second time, my expectations of Kyoto were slightly too high. Being back for a week, I was definitely far from disappointed. I’ve had my fair share of days to myself already, more than happy to spend them exploring and pondering around familiar territory.

It has never been an issue here compared to being back in France. I’m writing already, only being a week here. Where in France I couldn’t even muster up any type of chat, can you tell?

Only thing, it is already costing me, and I am also getting a little carried away. I would like to call it, making the most of it…

I purchased a couple more travel books specialised for Kyoto and I soon discover a generalised LP of Japan was very restricting. Especially now I realise the majority of the times I became hopelessly lost wasn’t altogether my fault.


This here is a drawing of the Great Sanjo Bridge by Kyoto Hiroshige (1797-1858)

My favourite place where I spend most my time. It is the crossing from some of the most beautiful sites in Kyoto and on the other side where the cash is spent. Especially where there is conveniently a Starbucks looking over the river. So here I am typing this, drinking my new obsession a Christmas Starbucks gingerbread latte. The addiction first started last year, and on return I find again with delight. For those of you who know my dislike for Starbucks, western stylie. Again Japan out do themselves with the attitude that they will except the outsiders, but with very much their stamp on it. The same goes to McDonalds here, damn it.

I came across a little gem the other day, if it wasn’t for my new books. The Murin’an Palace with its extremely small but breathtaking garden. Especially at this time of year with the autumn leaves, giving everything all that much more character. Here the meeting took place where the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905) was planned. I’m sure that was interesting for you.

I sat cross-legged for a while, looking out towards the garden. Drinking my green tea… awkwardly trying to remember the ritual of receiving it from the lady cherringly serving me, she didn’t mind me trying at least. I started to get pins and needles so I carried on, of course getting sidetracked into the little quirky boutique shops hidden away. Knowing the path exactly back to my spot with the gingerbread latte.

Having a naughty ciggie on the bank, there was this beautiful baby white crane, fishing at the water duct. Not having any luck whatsoever, then comes swooping along another one, grey and twice its size. Literally telling it to piss off! It deterred the little fella briefly, but only from the initial shock. Then he came straight back, with some real attitude! Even though in the end none of them were having any luck.

I then saw the same young hippy guy in his usual spot on the bridge… selling his funky jewellery. I met him last year and we had qiute a long chat but I think he was just being polite this time, pretending he remembered me. But I sat with him for abit anyway, looking at his stuff. I bought from him a bracelet last year and only last week did it break off, so I brought another one. Didn’t get a discount though.

Oh the other night, I put myself in a hilarious situation, typical. Over the past years, I have to say. You have to train yourself up to be able to go out for the evening… alone, without feeling ridiculously self-conscious about it.

Well Saturday night, I may have hit the nail on the head. Don’t get me wrong, staring into space sitting at the bar for ages will never cease to make you feel comfortable about it.

So I’m always prepared to make myself look busy. Best way.

So on Saturday night, a successful days shopping. Spending pretty much all the money I had on me, kid’s Christmas presents. Knowing not to go as all out as I did last year. They are ticked!

I commence onto the Irish bar. One pint… not much happening, I am outie. But yet for some reason, just cannot seem to leave it alone and search for the next bar. RUB A DUB

Underground bar, tiny but very cool and grunge. The barman with his awesome Jamaican accent, he later tells me he has never left to the west before. But yet he still manages to master the look of this bar as a very cool Caribbean haven. I stay for a beer, only being one other girl at the bar, in the whole bar infact! We start chatting. 2 hours later we still are, very limited vocab but we still managed to chat about the most ridiculous things!

A New Zealand ‘rugby’ team rock up later… and a gang of Sri Lankans. I miss my last train home… having to crash at this guy's place from New York who owns his own record label, really random. I then rock up at 8.30am the next morning ready for work!

I have more events lined up, so hoping more random stories.

Oh and I uploaded some photos in my last blogs, trying to make it look less boring. ;)

This is my version of Sanjo Bridge



Thursday 25 February 2010

Snowboarding in Asia

So I had been looking forward to this whole week off, no end. I had my last rail pass that Barbara and Christophe had kindly given me, and i was gonna use it to its full capacity! I certainly did. I was treated on my first day by Toko, a class in the tr
aditional tea ceremony. Being greeted at Nara train station, Toko looked so beautiful in her Kimono with her mother... and then me who seems to master the art of looking like a bag lady, someone once told me.
We spent pretty much all day at our 80 year old teachers home practising. It's fascinating, I fell into a trance watching this delicate but simple process that is the tea ceremony. It is so meticulous, and a perfect routine... my kinda way of meditation I reckon. If I'm ever gonna get into that sort of thing. At least your doing something whilst meditating! I read a book recently... yes i did! 'Yoga for people who can't be bothered' by Geoff Dyer.
"Driving into the sunset might be bad for your eyes, but at least your not just looking at, at least your driving. Thats how I like my sunsets".I bought biscuits for the afternoon, cause this is what we eat when we drink tea! They went down a treat with the ladies. They were so funny, looking elegant in their kimonos. Practising this thorough process whilst at the same time nattering away about how annoying their husbands are. So I had a lovely day.

The next day I started to make my trip up to the North Island. On the way I stopped off for the day in Hakone doing a round tourist trip. Near Mt Fuji, where it is possible to see it. I didn't, but it was alright i had already seen it. Volcanoes, hot springs and a boat trip on a beautiful lake. And many 'LOSER' photos. (see Facebook). I then arrived in Tokyo in the evening and I was treated to dinner with Andy again.First thing the next morning, i was off again. Starting my long trip up to the North Island. I had mentioned before, how i met the 2 Americans on top of a castle in Osaka and then again in Kyoto. Well my plans all seemed to turn out perfectly and i took up the suggestion and i went to Sapporo for the famous snow festival and some snowboarding. So there i was, taking a 10 hour trip with 3 trains up to Sapporo. Hours and hours of just travelling, didn't cost me a penny with this rail pass. Anyone who wishes to go to Japan. Don't leave home without purchasing one before hand, only lasts a week but they are so worth it.

So I arrived at 7pm, where i was greeted by Jake where we went for dinner and as they say ...a little bit swept off my feet. ;)
The next day I met his mate who kindly looked after me for the day, Jake had to work. Turns out, Ted (the friend) comes from only 20 minutes down the road from me which we both appreciated and enjoyed. I finally was taken to Karaoke, a must in Japan!
Then the next day we went snowboarding. Awesome snow, bit too much cause we ended up having to walk the whole way down the mountain on our last run. That was a bit of a drama, but it was nice to get back on the board after my little accident. We had planned to go the next day... but unfortunately the weather never settled.

Now I've been wondering weather to add this bit. I know you oldies including Ma is gonna read this but screw it.

You know when you get caught in a blizzard and your so cold that your hair and face actually freeze together... and your exhausted from the hiking and all you want is a nice long, big, hot bath....
Well in Japanese homes, its only possible to sit in the bath and you can imagine what state Jake's bath with his male flatmate looked like! So I had heard before about 'Love Hotels' only in Japan i think... or Asia. In every city, there is a little village full of them to take your pick.
Because of the culture there, its very common for the children to stay living at home until their 30s. Therefore couples have no way of being together. Hence the reason for 'Love hotels'. You can hire a room for as little as 3 hours at a really cheap rate. Its so private, that when you enter... you see no one. You press the button of the room that you like the look of and then go choose your bubble bath. You then go to the floor of your chosen room and you will see a flashing light at your door. You enter and you have the pay machine where you decide for how long you want it for. Then the next door opens and there you are. Fantastic! ... with the huge bath! It's a genius idea... with EVERYTHING you need. Unfortunately it would never work in the West, it would just turn into a brothel. It's incredible how different we are.

So the next day we ended up just chilling, eating incredible sushi, going to the snow festival and spending lots of time at all you can drink beer halls with Jake's friends. On the Monday I left early to catch my first train of many. Travel time to return back home was 14 hours, i slept the whole way. Just setting my alarm to change trains. I had an excellent time, an unforgettable weekend. It was too short cause my pass had run out, but Iwas lucky to have even been able to go at all.

When I was back home, it was time to start thinking about packing for returning to France, I cant believe how quickly it had gone. Barbara and I finallywent to an Onsen together... traditional Japanese bath. Another thing that would be awesome to have back home, but would never work. In Japan you don't have a bath to clean yourself, you must shower thoroughly before and then you have a bath to relax in. Its all very pleasant and clean, and i would go everyday. But back home it would just turn into a place as unpleasant as a public swimming pool. Or you would never be able to afford to go. But for Barbara and I... the whole naked thing. Definitely sealed the friendship.
Toko and i spent our last of memorable days together... and she spent the whole day trying to persuade me to come back next year. She did pretty damn well at it!

Oh and I never mentioned, a friend from home kindly told his mate who had lived in Kyoto for 5 years. That i was down and lonely in Japan with no friends. Kind of him in a way yes, it wasn't that bad though! So I met up with my mate's, mate Daniel who obviously took pity, he was visiting and he gave me a number to call.
Now I would love to return to Japan and see those guys again. I went out with them a couple of times, the last time being my last evening pretty in much Japan. Both times they made sure i drunk too much and both times i had removed everything from my handbag. Praying I wasn't going to vomit on a train in Japan. The humiliation compared to vomiting back home on public transport cannot be expressed. Luckily i didn't, but Barbara was awake both times on my return to laugh at my state.

So we arrived back in France 3 days ago... the Jet lag is still here loud and clear! But its good to be back, miserable weather mind but it was great to see the girls again. My teacher at school says I have improved, well i bloody should have after 4 months! Not what it should be after 6 months working but I have my excuses ;).
Don't get too jealous now, but next week I have another 9 days off straight! And I'm going to Verbier to go skiing this time! And to see plenty of friends.

Il let you know how i get on x

Friday 19 February 2010

What a place... Phuket!



Happy New Year! Delayed again I know… and I can only hope your year has started off well. I'm sorry I'm working on delayed time here... I have much more to tell... it's a waiting process with me I am afraid!

So spending our first 2 weeks this year in Thailand was lovely, with a cracking tan... which seems to have pretty much buggered off already. I made sure I was on the 00.40 train back home after celebrating New Year in a bar in Kyoto.
Although going to Phuket for a holiday leaves much to be desired in my view.... you still can't help but admire 'the beauty' ... of the lady boys! But I was perfectly content with the sunbeds by the pool for pretty much the whole time, apart from a few exciting adventures! ;)

I knew a friend of mine was also in Phuket… thanks to FB. One evening it had been pissing it down and I was in charge of the kids. I couldn’t even begin to contemplate dragging the kids through the chaotic streets... so the hotel restaurant it was. When I decided to call it a night and walking through the lobby... there was my friend making his way to reception! It wasn't bedtime for the kids just yet…
So a couple of days later, Barbara and Christophe agreed to let me go to Phi Phi for the night. It was my friends 30th, and they had just made their way there the day before. I bought him a pair of Thai Boxers as a present and they went down a treat! Although I was a little disappointed, I had set myself up. It went down so well, we all purchased a pair and sported them all night! Gaining huge respect, a very funny evening. The next day I was back on the boat... back to work. If you can say room service and a movie with the kids is work...
The holiday really did make it with the kids and I, I do feel like part of the family now. It's awesome! Andrea only speaks 'hello' and 'please' now, but 'thank you' is as hard as the rest of the French… and she covers her mouth when she coughs and will always make sure I've acknowledged this, cause I've taught her so well. ;)

Back to Japan, and strangely I felt relieved to be back 'home'. Only here for 4 months yet I totally felt settled. Especially when I'm out doing my own thing... waiting for the subway that seems so familiar now but not long ago so bloody daunting. I see Chieko walking towards me... Christophe' agent', assistant. How can I be randomly bumping into people in Japan already! We meet up later on in the day and she takes me for dinner, an area called Gion in Kyoto. A place where the streets are small and desolate with wonderful lanterns lighting up your path. Convincing you that there is nothing to be curious about. But behind every door is a fantastic, exclusive place to eat. No signs... nothing! Chieko leads me into a door at the end of an alleyway... where a lady greets you and you remove your shoes. You enter a tiny room where there were no more than 10 seats placed around the kitchen. We ate wonderful Kushi Katsu, apparently the best in Kyoto. Now how the hell would you know where to go for that!